Trail of Tears to Georgia Mountain Rally and Home
Lee Kubicki
Most, the GA. Mtn part, should have been written last
year. I left Alma, picked up Readland,
Arkansas, No. 6 in the 6 corners contest, finally after 5+ years and 3
bikes. Rode a goodly part of the
Natchez Trace. Got over to Russell
Cave, Alabama, an archeological site I’ve wanted to visit since High
School. Then over the hill into
Chattanooga, Tennessee, where the clutch went out. I had no luck using the BMW or Guzzi version Anonymous Books, so
I U-Hauled the old Eldo home. I could
try to write of this trip in greater detail, except I start crying and the
typewriter gets wet and starts smoking, sparking, etc.
June, 02, I bought a 2000 Moto Guzzi Jackal, (why would
anyone name anything after a carrion eating dog?) which was all tricked out for
touring, had just under 6000 miles and at what I felt was a good good
price. The bike had been on consignment
at Bentonville BMW since February. I’d
looked at it 4 times, and by June figured now or never. I’ve changed the seat for a Tom Simmon’s
rebuild, an ABSOLUTE MUST. The same guy
who named this bike probably designed the seat. A tank bag, tank panniers, horns w/b**ls, taller clear portion of
the barn door like Swanee windshield, that needs sawing off. Yes, yes, picky, picky, I know.Crash bars,
and finally, straight from Dennis Kirk Scratch and Dent 19?? Honda hiway
pegs. Gotta look cool dude! Did I mention that this cripple was all
tricked out, ready to tour?
Thru the rest of 02, I put on 6000 + miles. Missouri State,
Top of the Rockies, ( a first), Missouri/Kansas Guzzi, Falling Leaf, and
around. This shakedown went well except
for finding out too much about the state of Italian Seat Ergonomic Development,
I was a happy biker, the bugs on my toothbruch proved it.
Were you curious about this article’s title? Well, wait no more lucky readers, the saga
begins, after Jeopardy, that is.
Proceeding to the Trail of Tears via as many less traveled
roads as possible, including those neat alphabet Missouri county by-ways, I got
to the rally ok. Picked up Mammoth
Springs State Park for the Travel Arkansas and Win contest, had lunch at the
Dairy Queen right close by. Fine cusine
being a magnet for the best of the best road riders, it happened I was able to
dine with Fred and Carolyn Counts, Harlon Brown and our own esteemed newsletter
editor, Mike Wingfield. Boy, I hope
that kind of kissy, kissy keeps him happy in his job, bet the former editor
does too!
The rally was nice, only rain was a light shower Friday, and
a pretty heavy rain on the way in on Missouri 34 for about 20 miles. The weather Gods just reminding us who’s in
charge. I took a short ride up the ABC
roads to Fredericktown. My air mattress
had let me down for the last time, yuk, yuk.
I visited The Indispensible Roadrider Friend, Walmart and picked up the
$12.00 super pad. I hate to say it, but
it’s just ALMOST as good as my Thermarest, the concept is great. The sleeping pad zippers to the mattress,
the price is better by $20.00, but alas it failed under pressure.
While busily engaged in socializing about the rally site,
(ie. Loafing), I found out there is a new BMWMOA club in Arkansas, the
BMWRATS. BMW Road Animal Touring
Society. Contact Charlie Parson,
870-933-7038, bmw143@fastdata.net. He told me, after a brief oral test that I
was a shoo-in for membership, which should tell volumes about the caliber and
qualifications of the people they’re accepting, crème de la crème and all that.
The rest of this narrative I’ll do by each day, as hopefully
I can remember it better. First though,
all the eye crossing boring stats. Oh
pooh, first of first; at Mammoth Springs, a favorite pit stop, the Railroad
Museum. In the back has been redone
very well and now, instead of a couple of glass cases there are life size
diorama, videos, and nice short historical pictorial charts. Anyhow, it’s a very well done job and a vast
improvement from a few years back and for $2.50 worth it.
Stats: Left 4/25/03
returned 5/4/03 for Europhiles and Military types, transpose #’s 1 and 2……
Total miles:
3343. This bike has a odometer
gain of 1.5%, but I’m sticking with my grease pencil scrawls on the windshield.
MPG: Well the story
gets a bit fuzzy. I’d been rather
unhappy with the MPG last year, until at higher altitudes out west, after all,
electronic ignition, fuel injection, 350 more CC’s, and running it no harder
than the Eldo’s and I’m down 10+mpg, as it were though, as the trip progressed,
the low fuel light didn’t come on as soon and fillips showed a steady increase
to where there were normal runs between tanks of 40-42 mpg..Hah, you say, well
beats the hell out of the 35 I’d been getting, a major consideration when
diddybopping along with 1.1 less gas.
Why you ask did Guzzi build a touring bike with a smaller fuel tank than was standard thirty
years ago, besides getting worse gas mileage than it’s carbed cousin, perhaps
the seat designer brother in law? The
best was up in the Blue Ridge, even cruising, 4th gear,, rpm’s just
so smooth, ENJOYING the super scenery, worst coming west from Memphis on I-40
against terrible headwinds into what turned into one of the wettest
frogstranglers I’ve Ever rode through.
Normally, the low fuel light had been glowing at 130-140 miles, (this
ingenius accessory, hereafter referred to as “The Dumbshitlite or DSL) came on
at mile 106. I don’t even care to think
of how fast those winds were sucking gas out of my peanut sized “touring” tank.
Roads: Good and bad,
I’ll get more details later, and try not to be too yawn yawn about it. BUT, the Blue Ridge Parkway, the portion I
traveled thru in Virginia and North Carolina is some of the most spectacular
scenery I’ve ever been fortunate enough to see in this country, which is the
most fortunate place in the world to live.
Sunday: Left the
rally, crossed into Illinois at Cape Girardeau, Missouri. This day was just beautiful and it seemed
that lots of others thought so too, as hoards of people were out riding and
enjoying the day. I stopped at Cave in
the Rock State Park on the Illinois bank of the Ohio River. I’d been here on my way home from Vicksburg,
Mississippi, my first “real” long distance trip in 1970, on a 1949 H-D hand
shift 74. This is a pretty spot, high
on the Illinois bluffs and once a major hangout for some very bloodthirsty
gangs of river pirates. This was in the
early 1800’S, when flatboats were the river traffic, before the steamboat era.
Crossed the Ohio on a ferry, always, fun, into Kentucky and
mostly rode U.S. 60 E to Owensboro, KY.
US 60 thru this area is a nice winding 21a. thru pretty rolling farms,
woods and from Henderson to Owensboro there are some of the beautiful horse
farms Kentucky is noted for. Talked to
a Royal Star rider, while gassing up in Sturgis, Kentucky and found out this is
the location of the “Little Sturgis Rally”.
He said they get about 20-25,000 riders there each August, so if you
can’t make it to South Dakota, here it is.
Crossed into Indiana at Owensboro on US231 North to IN
66. This the “Ohio River Scenic Byway”,
and boys and girls, I’m here to tell you, it’s all that and more. The land on this side of the river is much
rougher and broken, so the road curves, winds, up, down and around. Goes inland thru woods and valleys, over the
ridges for some long views, then back to the river bluffs for more neat
looking. You sure get your eyeballs
worth on this narrow two lane. One real
postcard spot in at Derby, Indiana where the road is at the edge of a high
point overlooking an oxbow of the Ohio.
IN 66 junctions up with IN 62, which takes up the scenic byway, I
followed 62 to a turnoff to Harrison Crawford State Forrest and a good
campground, showers and a café where I had Bison burger and a real good laugh
over the tales of a turkey hunter and the gobbler who was putting the hex sign
on him.
Monday: Ran east on
IN 62 until Corydon, Indiana. Took I-64
and I-265 and rejoined IN 62 NE of Jeffersonville, now 62 angles NE and varies
from rolling open farms to down into rough wooded creek bottoms. Picked up US 50E to I-275 around the
Cincinnati area to US52E. This is also designated an Ohio River Scenic Byway,
but here it stays on the river bank, on the valley floor. It’s a good gentle slow road and since
everyone was staying at the 55 speed I deemed the Ohio police were serious
about it. Following so close and so far
right on the river, I started to notice how the founding dates of the towns
kept getting lower, down into the very early 1800’s, and power plants, man,
it’s mindful of reading about the Roman watchtowers, one always in sight of the
next. Shifting away from the river at Portsmouth, Ohio to Ohio numbers 140,
279, 554, OH 7 from Rock Springs to Porterfield, where it comes back to the
Ohio and turns 4 lane into Marietta, OH.
Here I moteled it, $30.00, not bad, since last nights camping was free.
Tuesday 4-29-03:
OH26N north of Marietta shows on the map as a twisty, the man at the
motel told me, “It’s a good bike road, You’ll like it”. Well, it’s all that, wow. Here and on the next segment the redbuds
were really coming into bloom. OH 26 to
148 to OH 9N just a short run on this road, but again, but so curvy, now with
the redbuds out and to sweeten the pot, COAL TRUCKS. They are so big on this narrow road and the dust they leave gets
ever so slick on the turns in the sprinkling rain. OH 9 to I-70E 10 miles, then across the neck of W.V. passed
Wheeling on into PA at Washington, PA.
I got off the I-road, goat a picture of the bike at the PO for the
ongoing IBET album, and got lost. By
and by I finally meandered back to I-40 and headed out. This is the National Road, or Pike, and the
first government build road in the US.
I don’t know what the spec’s were here, but on the Natchez Trace, it’s
for a wagon road 8’ wide and stumps cut off to 10” off the ground. There are still lots of the old taverns and
roadhouses along thru here, many as B&B’s, antique shops and private
homes. The ranger at Ft. Nessity
National Battlefield said that one time the 300 miles from Washington City,
(now D.C.) there were 291 road houses in operation. Barhopping back then could turn into a real chore! This might have been a real pretty stretch,
what with going over part of northern Appalachans, but as luck would have it
the higher the road the lower the clouds, to where I got in some of the
thickest fog I’ve ever been in. Ever so
exciting when a semi came looming out of this gloom. Just over the Mason-Dixon line in Maryland, I took US 219S into
Garrett county, MD. This has to be the
latest yuppie-scum capitol of this part of the civilized world. The place is awash with SUV’s, designers
clothes, 7 figure houses, gated here and guardhouses there. Lord, the reek of money would bring an Ox to
his knees. It’s only a short way thru
this area into West Virginia, and the contrast is unreal, at the border the
road narrows 4 inches, shoulders vanish and the forest rears up right now, dark
and primeval as the saying goes. US 219 winds along, thru, in and out of the
Monongahela National Forest, down along a valley floor then up and over a ridge
to a different watershed, easy and loafing, then snakey, then back. The Tygart river valley and the ski areas
from near Mindo to Slatyfork are especially nice. I had planned to camp at Watogs Start Park, WV, so I took WV 39
at Martlinton and went to Huntersville, which got it’s name as it started as a
fur trading post in the 1790’s. Rode
the 20 mi. to the park and found the campground locked up, so backtracking I go. Kept on with 39 and now the road was
crossing over the ridges, creek to creek, truly had to pay heed or it would be
a short fast trip to the bottom, challenging don’t you know.
WV 39 becomes VA 39, and the same keep your mind on what
your doing roadwise, but man when you top out of a ridge the views were
wonderful. Stayed at a motel in Hot
Springs, VA. Where there were 5 Beemer
riders from Philly, they also headed for Georgia Mountain.
Wednesday 4-30-03: I
wanted to get a picture for my IBET silliness, so I ran N. on US 220 to
Monterey, VA, got the photo, gas, the old boy at the repair shop had 15/40 oil
and a pan, so got that changed. Boy, I was ready teddy! Rolled E. on US 250 to Waynesboro and got
lost again, well fiddle & damn, got reoriented and THERE IT WAS….The Blue
Ridge Parkway, this truly is a absolutely fantastic work or art road. One
sweeping vista after another, the mountains just roll on like waves until
they’re lost on the horizon. Traveling
N. to S., it just gets better right along.
The road was built as a WPA project in the 30’s and a great job they
made of it, there are places now where housing developments are right on the
fence, the easement only 50’ wide or so over much of the parkway, but it still
a great ride. There are a few places on
the parkway to get gas, food, etc. but you’ll be well off to get one of the
PKWY Guides, that show all the services available at places just off the
PKWY. The speed limit is 45,quite ok
really, I rarely got to 50, or out of 4th gear, or wanted to. Man, there’s too much to see. If you want to speed on this road, you’ve
got the wrong attitude. Go elsewhere
and leave this one to us gawkers.
Anyhow, there I was toodling along, gazing and gauking and exclaiming to
myself that this is good, when just shy of the North Carolina line it started
to rain, then more harder. Well, they
don’t call me light bulb for nada, pulled off on a cross road and put on the
rain gear including the $35.00 Belstaff pants I’d bought at Trail of Tears. Lucky me, only 2 to 3 minutes and it
commenced to pouring, made the 20+miles on in to Doughton Park, one of the
major pit stops on the Parkway. I was
so glad to stop as the DSL had been lit for a long time, my raingear worked
well, especially my boots and pants. It
being 6:30pm, raining, I’m a truly tired puppy and there is a nice lodge right
here, I bit the bullet for a pricey, but nice room. There were three fellows there on Beemers from Richmond Virginia
also going to the rally. The lodge
owner let us all put the bikes under the large porch overhang, then made a run
for some of the biggest burgers I’ve ever seen, their kitchen being
remodeled. Finished up the day sitting
on the porch, eating burgers and watching the deer and wild turkey right there
almost in rock chucking range.
Thursday 5-1-03:
Shortly down the parkway, off
onto US221S, this is Blowing Rock, North Carolina. I could have kept on the 20 miles more then came onto this same
highway, but the twisty gods were watching and made me do it. While at the rally I didn’t run the Dragon
as I felt it would be redundant. It is
19 miles from Blowing Rock to Linville, NC and for the first 16 miles I rarely
got into 3rd gear, and never for long, the other 3 miles 3rd
and a little of 4th, just to see if it still worked. You have here either a joy or a terror
depends on your outlook. It was a hoot,
but a teeny bit scary, if perchance, you were a flatland trucker with a load of
nitro, it would turn your hair white.
The rest of US221 S to South Carolina and SC11 is an ok much more easy
going. Once on SC11W the road is easy
enough and faster, running the valley floor, it the spectacular bare rock
cliffs your going past that makes this portion of the trip stand out in
memory. I really think this is the area
where the mountain scenes from the movie, “Last of the Mohicans” (Daniel Day
Lewis) was filmed. The Ranger lady,
(ok, I’m a sexist pig) said she didn’t know, but that’s my story and I’m
sticking to it. Just prior to stopping
at the state park to inquire about the movie thing, I’d gotten a picture of the
bike by the “Worlds Largest Rocking Chair”, for the (drumroll) “Worlds
Largest-Grand Tour”, Pumpkintown, SC. I
have goals, I have a reason to ride these deathtraps, I probably have a mental
condition.
The rest of SC11 to US76W went well, I didn’t get lost. US 76 is a good road with nice sweeping
curves, truck passing lanes and some very scenic overlooks. I made the rally side by mid-afternoon, got
set up on the high spot by the lake, ate looked around and zonked out with a
dozen or so bullfrogs singing lullabys.
Friday: Loafed. Worked KP for the Friday night supper to get
a rally t-shirt, tough day, ubet!
Saturday: Rode the
poker run, fun 80 mile backroad trip, had a club flush going, ace-king high,
this is the best ever in 30 plus years of trying and busted out on the last
card. I did win the hard luck hand award, a Georgia Mountain Rally clock. It doesn’t run. Helped set up and serve at supper for something to do. Steak supper, damn cook got mine too well
done, clod. Yes, right it’s cook your
own……
Rained every afternoon and very hard Friday night, sit it
was on the high ground and tent stayed dry, so all was well.
Sunday 5-4-03:
Rolled out early, coffeed up and was packed and headed west by 7:30am
about. The plan got this, “THE PLAN”
was Us76W, go to the Tennessee Aquarium in Chattanooga, then see what
goes. Well there I am blissfully
buzzing along enjoying the sites, the nice sunshine and lo and behold a sign
which said, “YOUDUMBASS”, actually it said, Atlanta 52 miles. So, 100 lost miles and too many hours later
and I’m in the Tennessee Welcome Center looking at evil tidings on the Weather
Channel. There is a point in every trip
when it’s time to go home. This was
it. It was I-75, I-24, US41a, US64W and
I-40 just as hard as I dared. The
police were much in evidence in Tennessee, so I wasn’t too disrespectful of the
speed laws. East of Memphis the
headwinds became terrible, the DSL came on 30 miles early, so the bike was
really working. I needed gas again in
Mayflower, and none too soon, after gas and coffee, it was starting to rain,
with some serious thunder and lightening to the west. Raingear time and not a minute too soon, back on the slab near
Conway the bottom fell out. This one
ranked right up there with the top ten storms.
Since almost everyone else pulled off, I felt I was better moving, only
one car in front of me and no one in the mirrors. Just kept on trucking.
Things eased by Plumerville, better at Morrilton and all done by Adkins,
home by 9 pm. 814 miles. Way too much really, but the new seat sure
paid off.
I enjoyed myself, saw lots of new and pretty scenery, went
thru 7 states I’d not been to on a bike.
Hey, don’t give me that, even only 40 or 50 miles counts! The Georgia Mountain Rally is a good one, in
a very nice area, so if you can, GO!
There is Hope
Charlie Bishop
As the
wife and I were tooling north through Ohio on our way to northwestern
Pennsylvania I became confused on the route to take. South of Akron we pulled into a rest area. There at the coffee stand was a black
motorcycle gang called the Vultures. I
walked up to their leader (he had “Pres” tattooed on his denim vest). “What’s the best was to get on Interstate 80
east?” They all chimed in noticing I
was attired in road worthy gear for motorcycling. Just like the map, their directions confused me. “Heck” their leader proclaimed, “We’ll take
you there”. Picture this: One fully loaded two up K1800LT amid several
straight piped Harley cruisers pushing our way through afternoon rush hour traffic. Frankly, it was quite thrilling to watch the
horde of cars part like the Red Sea for this intimidating gang. The route was confusing, sometimes heading
west to accomplish east! When the way
became obvious, we pulled over. “Moses”
invited us to his home for coffee or to stay the night. As we parted I felt a broad smile spred
across my face and my soul. Here we
have tourer and cruiser, black and white, and north and south all brought
together by 2 wheels and a request for assistance.
Charlie
I spoke with James Wilbanks, President of BMW Motorcycles of Little
Rock, and he invites you to stop by the new dealership at 710 Jones Street,
Little Rock, AR. They’re putting the
finishing touches on and expect to have a Grand Opening Gala sometime in
October, but right now they’re ready to assist you with your motorcycling
needs. The telephone number is
501-374-4BMW!
From the Editor’s Desk
by Mike
2003 Dues
Please Pay Your Dues!
The rates are still the same bargain at $10 per individual and $15 per
family. Send to:
Jerry
Reynolds
1200
Donaghey Ave
Conway, AR
73034
Wanted Newsletter Material: Always
We are
always soliciting for newsletter articles.
Send that article you have always intended to write. Many thanks to
those of you; who have submitted material already. You are allowed to
send in more. Send the materials
to: Mike Wingfield, 2402 S. Taylor,
Little Rock, AR 72204, or e-mail to: CMWINGFIELD@UALR.EDU.
New Members
Gary Wyatt, Independence, Missouri
Russell Wilson, Little Rock,
Arkansas
.
Activities
FLEA MARKET
There is no charge for the ad; we
only ask that you be honest and fair. Naturally Beemers is not responsible for
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newsletter unless extended.
Don’t forget the 10% Club Member Discount at Bentonville
Cycle Sales
1998 R1200C
with ABS for Sale. Contact Jeff Tarlton
via e-mail JTTarlton@aol.com
……
Submitted by Harlan Brown
Motorcycling TIPS written and translated by Honda and taken from a 1962
Honda Motorcycle Instruction Book.
Translated by Honda for the American Motorcycle Rider.
The
following rules for motorists are so successful in Japan, that American
motorcycle riders might profitably paste them in their hats.
At the rise of the hand of a policeman, stop rapidly. Do not pass him by or otherwise disrespect
him.
When a passenger of the foot, hooves in sight, tootel the
horn trumpet melodiously at first. If
he still obstacles your path, tootel him with vigor and express by mouth,
warning, Hi, Hi.
Beware of the wandering horse that
he shall not
Take fright as you pass him. Do not explode the exhaust box at him. Go soothingly by.
Give big space to the festive dog that makes sport in the roadway. Avoid entanglement of dog with wheel spokes.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid
demon. Press the brake foot as you roll
around the corners, and save the collapse and tie up.


Naturally Beemers
The BMW M/C Club of Arkansas
http://www.pcfa.org/clubs/naturally_beemers/
BMWMOA
CLUB #181 Chartered 2/88
BMWRA
CLUB #74 Chartered 4/91
Steering Committee
Otto Ising…..........................President
Barry Phillips…..............Vice
President
Elmer
Sveda…......................Activities
Jerry
Reynolds…...................Treasurer
Rod Kilduff…………………. .Secretary
Annual Membership Dues:
$10.00
for Solo
$15.00
for Family
Send correspondence to:
C.
Michael Wingfield
2402
S. Taylor
Little
Rock, AR 72204
cmwingfield@ualr.edu